The Inside Source

5

Emily Spivack Loves a Good eBay Story

A natural-born archivist, Emily Spivack loves to dig for narratives with soul. In addition to blogging for Threaded, the Smithsonian’s fashion history blog, she documents personal clothing stories through her two other digital babies, Worn Stories and Sentimental Value, the latter being an experimental journey into the emotional tales found on eBay. Inspired by the purest curiosity to troll through the e-commerce platform naturally (we swear we didn’t put her up to it!), we were thrilled to discover this blog organically.

Last Friday, I took a trip to Philadelphia to attend her first-ever installation of Sentimental Value in its corporeal form, with original items presented beside the unedited text from eBay’s listing. The result? A fascinating study in human emotion. As guests surrounded her with praise all night, I managed to squeeze in some personal time with Emily to ask a few questions on her anthropological sojourn online.

Jauretsi: Most of your blogs revolve around clothing, yet you are not a “Miss Fashionista” type. What is it about clothes that draws your attention?

Emily Spivack: I approach fashion with a reluctant fascination. I’m curious about what informs how people dress — decisions they make consciously or unconsciously about what to wear, what to buy, what to hold onto. I’m less curious about new trends, upscale designers, and must-have items. I see clothing as a reflection of culture, values, and history. What you see in my various projects is an attempt to figure out what the garments we cover our bodies with every day mean. For me, it’s an ever-evolving process.

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J: For the Smithsonian blog, I imagine there is an incredible responsibility to writing about the history of clothes. What was one of your favorite historical posts that surprised and pushed your curiosity?

ES: This past winter, I was looking at an ad for sequin-covered Ugg boots on the subway platform, and I wondered how sequins had gone from formal occasions to something so mundane and ubiquitous. I decided to look into it, and figured that Threaded readers would share my curiosity and enthusiasm (which they did since it’s been one of the most popular posts).

In the process of researching those shiny discs, I uncovered details that practically made me giddy. For example, Leonardo da Vinci sketched a sequin-making machine! King Tut was buried with sequins! (Sequins were more functional than decorative then.) And when sequins were made with gelatin in the 1930s, the sweaty hand of a dance partner could melt them right off the back of your dress.

J: Your upcoming show, Sentimental Value, opened May 17th where you displayed items found on eBay (we’re flattered!). Tell us how you came to gravitate towards eBay tales versus any other marketplace, and how this art project came to life on its own.

ES: I’d been buying from eBay for years, mainly vintage clothes and tchotchkes, when, in 2007, I came upon a garment with a really detailed provenance. Instead of just describing the garment’s size, condition, and other basics, the post included information about who had owned it, when, and why. A photo of the former owner was even included in the auction’s documentation. Something clicked at that moment and I began looking around eBay for more stories associated with clothes people were selling. They weren’t so easy to find, but if I looked long enough, I’d find them. I became fascinated with people’s desire to share stories — often quite personal ones — about things they were parting with, and on an online platform that wasn’t really meant for storytelling. I was particularly drawn to eBay’s marketplace for stories because all kinds of people sell all kinds of stuff on eBay. I’ve collected over 600 stories at this point and I can pretty quickly get a sense of the person by the way s/he tells the story (emoticons, ALL CAPS, detailed anecdotes) and photographs the garment (on the bed, over a closet door, on a mannequin). I never know what I’m going to find and that’s what has kept this project interesting, what’s prompted me, in 2010, to start bidding on the garments I was posting on Sentimental Value, and what’s helped this project evolve into an exhibition.

J: What is the one eBay item’s personal story that moved you the most?

ES: I don’t know if there’s one personal story that’s moved me the most. Some are funny, others are sad, and then there are those that are simply mystifying. I did reread this one post recently, about a high school-aged girl who made a homemade anime costume for a boy she had a crush on, and I was struck by the story’s open, and bittersweet, tone.

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Sentimental Value: Emily Spivack runs from May 17 - August 18, 2013 at the Philadelphia Art Alliance, 251 South 18th Street, Philadelphia, PA.

(Photo: Curator/Blogger Emily Spivack with exhibition item “Victoria Bronze Brocade Silk 2pc Brides Travel Dress.” On eBay, the caption reads: “The sad story of this dress is that it was made as part of a young woman’s bridal trousseau. This was her ‘going away’ dress. She was married, but the hapless bridegroom was killed in a horse & buggy accident on the honeymoon. She returned home, placed the dress in a chest and it’s been there ever since, until the home was finally emptied for an auction sale of all the contents over a hundred years later.” — eBay seller vintageaffairedamour, August 16, 2010. Photo & Text by Jauretsi)

14

The Way of the Feather

If you’re looking to doll up a chic dress or T-shirt this spring, take a look at Wilhelm and their unique feathered caplets and scarves. Designer Megan Guip mostly handcrafts these striking pieces herself with a small team. This New York creative spirit served as J. Crew’s Design Director for 13 years before deciding to break out with her own signature line. The Inside Source asked Megan, a vintage queen, the secrets of her trade…

Jauretsi: What was the most important thing you learned while working at J. Crew that you maintain in your business moving forward?

Megan Guip: One word: Integrity.

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J: Of all materials to take on for a fashion line, explain why you gravitate to feathers, and what is it like sourcing and working with such fragile objects?

MG: Feathers are such an exquisite medium to work with. I’m in awe of their beauty and perfection. It takes patience finding the right color, quality, and texture. For how delicate they are I’m always impressed with their durability… think about it, birds are wearing them while battling all the elements.

J: For the eBay junkies, tell us your top three list of items you always search for in the world of vintage.

MG: At the moment it’s novelty jackets, Uzbekistan textiles, and home furnishings.

J: What can we expect from you every season in terms of this line?

MG: I’m not really designing seasonally; my pieces are seasonless. What I’m anxious to explore is dip-dyeing and painting with metallics so they look gilded. The shapes will evolve organically, meaning whatever inspires me in the process.

J: Do you have any tips or tricks when searching/scouring on eBay?

MG: I got my tips from a friend who is a serial eBay-er: Only the last seven seconds count… hunt like a tiger… crouch, then pounce!

(Photo courtesy of Wilhelm. Text by Jauretsi)

9

By Way of Stockholm

Dusty Deco, a speciality interiors store located in Stockholm, is the brainchild of one of the city’s most fashionable couples, Edin Memic Kjellvertz (formally of Acne Studios) and Lina Thofelt (currently at H&M Home). Drawn to the rugged and worn, the store is an eclectic mix of vintage industrial pieces, well-loved leather couches, and the occasional midcentury piece. No matter what the item, thoughtfulness rues the day, with each knickknack chosen with an eye for texture, color, and uniqueness. The Inside Source chats with one half of the Dusty Deco team, Mr. Kjellvertz.

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Jenny Bahn: Tell me a bit about the ethos of Dusty Deco, how the style differs from what you might normally find in Stockholm.

Edin Kjellvertz: It’s quite basic. We only go for stuff that we really love and would like to have in our own house. We don’t really follow any trends and focus more on beautiful objects and try to build an environment in the store that our customers can bring to their own home. They’re vintage pieces, but instead of using the term “secondhand,” we call it “firsthand” since everything is handpicked. When you enter Dusty Deco we want the customer to get an “aha!” experience and that the feeling is new every time you come. All your senses should be tickled when you enter the store; we have our own candles, playlists, and, of course, the lighting.

JB: When you were at Acne did you know you wanted to eventually move to interiors?

EK: Not really. I have always loved nice furniture and redecorated the house as often I could, but never thought of it as a profession. It was a hobby that grew and became a business.

JB: You’ve got such a great eye for pieces. Were your parents into decorating their own house when you were a kid?

EK: My mom has always been fixing in the house — painting, redecorating. It was quite classic in terms of furniture but she played around quite a lot with colors. I remember that I was very specific with what I wanted in my own room. She’s also been buying old country houses where she’s done basically everything herself. I think I got a little bit of her “learn by doing” spirit. My dad is very classic and has always liked English antiques. He is quite old school and likes heavier stuff like mahogny and dark leathers. He has always been very into architecture and did his own house and restaurants. I do think I might have been affected by this as well.

JB: How would you describe your own apartment now in terms of how it’s decorated? Is it hard to not keep amazing pieces that you find for DD for yourself?

EK: Wow, that’s difficult. It changes all the time. It’s the same like with the store: our personal taste changes every time we travel; we always get new inspiration. It can be from things we see, people, a place, or from music. Our apartment is very alive since we change pieces but I would say that it is an eclectic mix of designer classics, vintage finds, photo art and pieces that make us happy. We always try to have fresh flowers in all the rooms and try to keep it quite clean — not too much stuff. The most important for us is the dining area; it needs to be a social space where we can invite our friends for dinner and drinks.

In the beginning when we started DD I didn’t want to sell anything in the store; I loved almost everything too much. We kind of fall in love with everything we buy but I have learned to shop for the store and keep it that way.

JB: What do you look for in an item when you’re shopping for new pieces?

EK: It could be different from day to day. I always look for strange things and objects, cool shapes, the right patina. I love to mix qualities. I love contrasts and to surprise my customers. I think that people tend to come back since I always get new pieces in the store and that my buying is changing all the time.

JB: Favorite era for design?

EK: A little bit of everything! Difficult to say, but I love Jean Prouvé, Eames, Bertoia, Marcel Brauer — so I would say Bauhaus mixed with crazy bric-a-brac from all times. Make sense? Probably not.

JB: What cities have the best vintage, in your opinion?

EK: There is one store that I just love called L.A. Studio in Madrid. For my own inspiration, I love Paris, New York, and Los Angeles. Then there are hundreds of small cities around Europe and the States. It’s all about having the time and patience to travel around. Right now I really love Spain but that can change. I’m on my way to go on a European tour the next following weeks and then I’ll visit Holland, Belgium, Germany, the Czech Republic, and Denmark before heading home again. I have no clue where and in what city to stop. I’ll just stop where I think it looks cool and interesting.

(Photo courtesy of Dusty Deco. Text by Jenny Bahn)

58

Company Girl: Yara Flinn, of Nomia

Meet Yara Flinn, a designer for her own line called Nomia. A lover of music, she told Rolling Stone she listened to Grimes, A.R & Machines, Elite Gymnastics, Burial and Zomby for a little inspiration while creating her 2012 collection. The Inside Source caught up with Yara on a post-winter day with the new sun just to snap her outfit of the day.

Jacket: Nomia | Shirt & Jeans: Uniqlo | Shoes: Converse | Rings: Vintage

(Photo: Melodie Jeng. Q&A by Jauretsi)

21

Company Girl: Louise du Toit of Acne

Title: Acne Studios Country Manager, North America.

What you generally do all day: Work! I run around, visit stores and clients, and try to make sure Acne is represented in the best way possible on shop floors as well as in press. Protector of the brand.

Describe work environment: I’m the old lady in office, believe it or not. My employees “keep me young.” Lots of rap, trap, whatever they are into. As long as everyone is happy, I’m happy. We have a beautiful office downtown. Crazy 360 views of the city. As long as we are hitting goals and budgets, the vibe is pretty relaxed. We all get along and work together to make Acne Studios what it is here in North America. Love my job.

Favorite eBay score: A red Celine scarf.

(Photo: Melodie Jeng. Q&A by Jauretsi)

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Company Girl: Kelly Faulds of 3.1 Phillip Lim

Title: Women’s RTW Sales Executive at 3.1 Phillip Lim

What you generally do all day: Work to drive sales and support current relationships with domestic wholesale and international e-commerce retailers.

Describe work environment: Fun and upbeat. Everyone is extremely hardworking and always on the go. I’m lucky to be part of such a wonderful team and work environment.

Clothing: Denim top: Vintage | Shoes: Nine West | Sunglasses: Illesteva | Jacket, Pants, and Bag are Phillip Lim

(Photo: Melodie Jeng of Thenycstreets.com. Q&A by Jauretsi)

46

The Photography Hunt: Michael Avedon

Michael Avedon, grandson of legendary photographer Richard Avedon was interviewed by the founder of Dirt who recently asked him his camera of choice. Michael quickly confessed that he was “totally a film guy”. The budding artist continued to describe his passion for old school equipment. “I’m drawn to the work of past” he says. “I will have to become a slave to the digital world… [MORE] eventually but I’m mostly working with my 35mm, my Rolleiflex. I just started experimenting with 4x5 but I haven’t stepped it up to 8x10 yet, but yeah I love film. I photograph my grandma in this chair all the time with my Rolleiflex.”

We spotted a bunch of Rolleiflex cameras in the eBay closet for those lovers of all things vintage. In terms of inspirations, Michael points out what motivates his mind. ”In a photographic sense, I’m all about the face. Irving Penn. I love Nan Goldin, Larry Clark. But if I had to say strongest influence I would say Otto Dix and Egon Schiele, I’m drawn to the German aesthetic”. When it comes to filmmwork, he tells Dirt, “how can I forget Woody Allen, Tarantino, Lynch, Antonioni? All the classic filmmakers I adore.”

(Photo: Courtesy of AllThingsDirt via Michael Avedon site. Text by Jauretsi)

19

Two If By Sea

If you’ve been to New York City in the last few years, you might have noticed a groundswell happening in the city’s surf community. Though many might not immediately associate the concrete jungle with surfboards and rash guards, there is a substantial international subculture taking to the shores of Rockaway Beach and Montauk — and a host of stores popping up to service their needs.

This is where Indoek comes in.

Indoek (pronounced “in-doe-eck”) is the beachy brainchild of photographer/ filmmaker Drew Innis and graphic designer Matt Titone. One part online surf shop, two parts cultural warehouse, Innis and Titone have created a well-curated pit stop for the digital world.

It should go without saying that the two are avid surfers: Titone’s been in the water for 17 years and Innis clocks in somewhere around 15. What separates them from other NYC surf outfits (Saturdays and Pilgrim, to name a few) is that while Innis lives in Brooklyn, Titone is holding it down in Venice Beach, CA. The result is a happy marriage of east and west, bridged by music, waves, and definitely babes.

The Inside Source was lucky enough to have a chat with these fine fellows about… [MORE] the beginnings of Indoek, the East and West Coast scenes, and secret surf spots that, well, will remain secret.

Jenny Bahn: State your age and place of origin, please.

Drew Innis: 31. Connecticut, outside of NYC.

Matt Titone: 31. Delaware.

JB: Where did you two meet?

DI: We met through a mutual friend. Now that I look back on it, it was kind of strange. It was like a friend setting you up with someone to date: “Hey, you guys would be good together; you should meet.” We were introduced over email or Myspace, I forget. And then we talked about creative stuff on the phone. I had never physically met Matt before, but I flew to New York and stayed with him for several days. We did an outrageous amount of partying and I left with some stories that will never get repeated… a bond was formed.

JB: What was the genesis of Indoek?

DI: Back in 2005 we wanted to start a more mature and classic lifestyle surf brand than what was out there at the time, but we lacked the resources, knowledge, and connections to execute it properly so it didn’t get very far.

MT: Five years later we decided to try again from a different angle and start a little smaller to see if we could grow from there. So far it seems to be working; we just want to use it as a means to catalog and make stuff we like.

JB: What’s the most amazing surf trip you’ve ever taken?

DI: I haven’t been on too many surf trips. I’ve done the Caribbean and South American destinations, but nothing as good as a boat trip to the Mentawais or anything. Probably the most exciting trip was going down to Todos Santos off the coast of Baja for the infamous Big Wednesday swell.

MT: Nicaragua is definitely up there.

JB: Your dream beach?

DI: It’s a secret spot somewhere in New England that I can’t name. There’s nothing like a crisp fall day with offshores and some warm sun on your face and just a couple friends to trade barrels with.

MT: It’s funny. I’ve been to a lot of really cool tropical beaches, but to me there’s no place like a fall day on the Northeast coast. No place like home, I suppose. I have one spot in particular in mind, but I’d rather not say where.

JB: Your Mixtape Mondays compilations are divine. How important is music to Indoek?

DI: Thanks. There’s a lot of energy and hours spent digging through the Internet to find music for them so it’s always nice to hear people are listening and enjoying. Music is very important to Indoek and it’s great way to share our enthusiasm for certain genres and bands and connect with our audience.

JB: Any favorite surf photographers/ videographers out there right now that people should know about?

DI: Our’s and the younger generation are really breaking the mold of traditional surf photography and cinematography. They’re finding inspiration outside of action sports and bringing a fresh and thoughtful perspective to the sport. For photography, Morgan Maassen and Chris Burkard, as well as the rest of the photographers under Massif Management (Will Adler, Nolan Hall and Rob Kulisek). Guys like Patrick Trefz have been doing it right for a while.

MT: Two St. Auggie doggies come to mind right off the bat: Russell Brownley and Drew Miller. We feature a lot of their work on the blog.

JB: Matt, what’s most remarkable about the LA surf scene?

MT: I think it’s remarkable how friggin’ crowded it is everywhere all the time! The good part is that it is way more consistent than back east, but unfortunately everyone else is out here for the same reason. It’s also really cool to be able to surf all these famous breaks you grew up looking at in surf mags. There are just so many options, it’s crazy. Every weekend can feel like a surf trip. That keeps me stoked more than anything.

JB: Drew, what about the NYC scene?

DI: Obviously it’s remarkable that there is a such a healthy surf community here, but what’s remarkable, or, better yet, refreshing, is that surfers here are so many other interesting things — artists, filmmakers, designers, business owners, writers — with such a garden of interests in culture and hobbies that being a surfer doesn’t define who they are.

JB: Five things every surfer must own?

DI: 1) A pair of DaFin swim fins for body surfing; 2) Indoek Wax Kit; 3) Patagonia wetsuit; 4) Al Merrick Dumpster Diver; 5) Leatherman multi-tool

MT: The bare essentials are board, towel, boardshorts, wetsuit and wax, but here are some of my favorite “luxury” surf items: 1) A Merrick shortboard or a Takayama longboard; 2) Leatherman multi-tool; 3) Surfers Salve (cures everything!); 4) GoPros are pretty cool; 5) Indoek Wax Kit, of course!

JB: In a crueler world, how much would someone have to pay you to quit surfing?

MT: Couldn’t pay me to.

(Photos courtesy of Indoek. Text by Jenny Bahn)

4

Meet Eric Villency

Eric Villency is an incredibly diverse, passionate, and creative soul. As Principal for the family company, Villency, Eric spends most of his days designing and manufacturing a myriad of gorgeous products. Other projects include the recent renovation of the historic Ritz Carlton Palm Beach. The interdisciplinary designer shared a few minutes with The Inside Source to discuss his recent design coups as well as his expertise recommendations from his favorite car hunts (set your eBay alerts!)

Jauretsi: As Principal of the Villency Design Group , a long standing family business, what is the one trait maintained after all these years? By that token, what fresh thinking do you strive to bring to the heritage of the brand?

Eric Villency: Being a creative design company, we are constantly evolving and working on new projects. Fresh thinking is inspired by our people, our clients and the world around us so change is constant. Our reputation and heritage is based upon… [MORE] quality and the proficiency of our work. Today we design and manufacture a dizzying range of products, from Spin bikes to hair dryers, to glass bottles, apparel, and electronics among a host of other categories. The amazing support staff we have dedicated to quality control, logistics and fabrication has allowed to explore these new creative fields and it’s gratifying that that ethic has enabled new opportunities and projects.

J: Can you put into words what is your Style Modus Operandi? Your closet in a nutshell?

EV: I learned everything about fashion from my Grandfather. He had a fantastic sense of style that was very masculine and effortless. Things I think about are quality over quantity and attention to detail always resonates with me. My mainstays tend toward classic and I try to inject some personality and individuality by mixing in some color or pairing vintage with new and high with low.

J: What are the top 3 things you believe every man should possess in his closet?

EV: A well tailored Suit (versatile enough to pair with jeans), a great pair of shoes (they are something you wear every day), and a sweater stylish enough for the office and socializing afterwards, but also practical enough to travel in — think the special service sweater from Triple Aught Design

J: What are your passions on the side? In other words, when not working, what do you spend the most time doing?

EV: I have a young son so spending time with him is a priority. Outside of chasing him around, I love being physically and creatively active. Creatively I love to fix up vintage furniture and when it’s time for some training I favor running, biking and swimming. It’s been great working on so many wellness projects lately like the Soul Cycle spin bike, fitness apparel, and the Organic Avenue glass bottle because my two passions for design and health came together.

J: iPhone or Blackberry?

EV: Iphone. But would love to work on a new design for the Blackberry (just saying….)

J: iPad or Powerbook?

EV: Both… 1/2 of my life is spent working on designs and the other half is showing them to people

J: What is your favorite app? Why?

EV: Uber… Neither rain, nor snow, nor gloom of night are a factor any longer for scoring a ride home in NYC with this app. Easy to use and easy to love

J: Tell us how you found your ‘95 LandRover, and why you chose the model?

EV: I was looking for a vintage beach truck for awhile. It is a classic model that has brawn and style. It hasn’t been sold in the United States for some time but it still turns heads (and for me the key on these old cars is having the V8, otherwise while they may look great they can perform like a golf cart).

J: Are there any other car models you obsessively search for?

EV: I love reworking anything vintage. Great platforms to have some fun with and are the International Harvester Scout, Ford Bronco and the Dodge Power Wagon. All have serious potential and I’m hoping one will be my next project that I can get ready in time for summer.

J: What is next on your plate of projects?

EV: We are working on some exciting projects for Rockstar Energy, the CFDA, Equinox, and a few new international hotel projects.

(Photo and Text by Jauretsi)

70

Insta-Peep-o-Gram: Nick Hines

“I’m seventeen. I love nature and art! I’ll try not to disappoint you,” Nick Hines announces on the header of his Instagram page. What follows is a litany of kaleidoscopic, psychedelic, digitally altered images from rural, south eastern Ohio, where snow falls on empty fields and trees stand tall and uninterrupted. Nick then processes the images, sometimes adding an overlay, and then ships his magical world out to the masses, one shot at a time.

On Instagram, we often choose to follow those in the fast lane: the magazine editors, the celebrities, the models, all those boldface types. Everyone lives in Paris, London, New York. They take pictures of vegan food in San Francisco restaurants and snap shots while tanning on South African beaches. Nick (for the time being) is far removed from that, and that’s what makes his world so wonderful. His relative remoteness is an asset, and the images that he creates as a result do anything but disappoint.

The Inside Source wanted to pick the brain of this young photographer-in-the-making and find out what it’s like to approach photography having been born fully immersed in the digital age. Nick was kind enough to oblige.

Jenny Bahn: Can you tell us a little about where you’re from?

Nick Hines: I live about two hours away from Columbus, which would be… [MORE] the nearest large city. I live on a farm but I’m anything but a country kid. My home is actually located in Wayne National Forest and that’s why I have so many nature-themed pictures. It’s beautiful here all year long but I hardly get away from here and I’d like to see way more of the world than what I have. Everyone around here is the same.

Q: Do you take all your photos on your iPhone?

A: I do take all of my photos on my iPhone 3GS. The camera is actually pretty good for being so outdated compared to the ones in newer iPhones. Luckily, I get my new iPhone in April though!

Q: What are some of your favorite apps?

A: My favorite apps are Snapseed, Split Pic, and Decim8. I’d say my absolute favorite would be Snapseed though because it makes any picture look like a professional did it. The other two I like just because they are neat and look like I know what I’m doing. Haha.

Q: Do you ever shoot on real cameras, or just the iPhone?

A: I do not take pictures on real cameras. It’s harder for me to get creative with real ones for some reason. Plus, I don’t even own a camera of my own besides the one in my phone.

Q: How did you get into photography?

A: I don’t think that there was a specific time that I got into photography. I started at the end of last winter when I first discovered Instagram. To be honest, at first I was horrible at taking pictures but then fortunately I evolved into a much better artist. Now photography consumes most of my free time. I’d say that I started really getting into it though when I saw the works of others that inspired me.

Q: What are your favorite things to shoot?

My favorite things to photograph are trees. I am obsessed with anything nature, especially trees. I love how no two trees are the same and how the branches twist and turn up to the sky. They are just too beautiful. Over the summer I was always out in the forest under one.

To follow Nick on Instagram, his handle is @nick_hines.

(Photos courtesy of Nick Hines. Text by Jenny Bahn)

insider

Emily Spivack Loves a Good eBay Story

The Way of the Feather

By Way of Stockholm

Company Girl: Yara Flinn, of Nomia

Company Girl: Louise du Toit of Acne

Company Girl: Kelly Faulds of 3.1 Phillip Lim

The Photography Hunt: Michael Avedon

Two If By Sea

Meet Eric Villency

Insta-Peep-o-Gram: Nick Hines